I’ve been toying with the idea of writing a travel guide about Curaçao for quite some time now, because our guests are often surprised that there isn’t actually a current guidebook for the island. The other day, I turned onto Caracasbaaiweg, the traffic was flowing so smoothly, and it occurred to me:
“There must be lists of the most important people in the world… they’d probably include figures like Barack Obama, Bill Gates, or Steve Jobs…”
Just then, I passed the spot where Edwin sells his freshly caught fish by the roadside, and the idea spontaneously came to me to write about people from Curaçao who are important to ME – like Edwin, the barracuda fisherman:
Edwin – sunny complexion, a mischievous, boyish smile, Dutch blond with deep blue eyes, and a fisherman through and through. When I see him parked in his old red pickup truck just outside the Gasora gas station, there’s only one thing to do: pull over and get in to grab the best and freshest fish! Any existing plans for the day are promptly thrown out the window, because there’s simply nothing better than Edwin’s fish:
Swordfish, blackfin tuna fillet (my absolute favorite), barracuda, tuna, red snapper, flying fish. Edwin, the walking encyclopedia, gives preparation tips and always honest answers – “Edwin, are the flying fish tasty?” and Edwin explains in a fatherly tone: “Yes, yes, very tasty, but also lots of fish bones…” Well, I’ve never been a fan of fish bones, so I’ll stick with my blackfin tuna, which doesn’t taste like tuna at all. So succulent, so aromatic, that I only add salt to preserve its wonderful natural flavor. Edwin chats away in Papiamento like a local, joking and bantering with his customers, and of course: head and bones end up in my bag too – for the cat, because he’s a gourmet as well!
So, if you, like us, enjoy really good fish, you’re guaranteed to find something at Edwin’s. The only catch:
Edwin’s “opening hours” – In the summer months, Edwin often seems like a revelation.
Sometimes you search for him in vain for days. You get the feeling he’s sold his entire catch to the best restaurant in Willemstad, and his fish has landed as an exquisite ingredient on the elegant plates of “Le Clochard.” And, of course, his pickup truck is deserted once all his outboard gear has been sold. And what does all this cost? Ten florins disappeared from my wallet – just two euros per fillet side… So if you happen to be driving down Caracasbaaiweg one day and see his grey car: pull over, get out, and hand over that delicious fish!
